Varkala - slowing down the pace a bit

Well, I've been here in Varkala for a few days, and have been slowing down the pace a bit. This is not easy for me. I once joked with a friend that my family applies the protestant work ethic to our leisure (this summer at a family reunion we were swimming across the lake and back, kayaking, sailing, windsurfing, playing tennis, so that by the end of the day we were all pooped out - which was very nice by the way). So for me to just laze around is not a normal state - unless of course it's a weekend in Brooklyn and I'm being a serious couch potato. In Madurai someone took my old slippery pair of crocs outside the temple, and since then I've been questing for a good pair of footwear. I got some Indian teva-esque sandals that I am playing around with, but I still am getting some blisters. It's funny how a little thing like sandals can throw you off balance. It's been a few days of sleeping, reading, napping, bodysurfing (nice waves here), eating yummy fish for dinner fresh caught that day, and massage. They have all the day's catch out front, and you can pick what you want and how you want it cooked (I've been doing swordfish tikka). I hope that's PC fish to eat, I can't remember that list. Yesterday I had an Ayurvedic massage. This was a serious experience! They leave no part (well, almost no part) of your body untouched. And a bit rough. Tough love. It was good to have them work on my calves, which have been very tight from all the walking and from the ankle injury I got back in December. Ayurvedic massage involves a serious dousing in oils tinged with herbs and other "medicines". At the end they have you sit up and give your scalp a good scrub with oil - it feels fantastic! Also cool about Varkala is the night fisherman. Looking out over the bluffs at night you can see hundreds of little lights, each representing a small fishing boat out trying to bring in the day's (night's) catch. The waters seem to be rich if the on-land availability is any indication.

As I said before this is a semi-typical beach town. More tourists than Indians, which is quite rare in India, even when you're on the tourist track. Last night I had dinner with some folks from Canada and Minnesota. The Minnesotans were a young couple who had decided, 14 months ago, to sell their house and quit their jobs and travel all around the world (Australia, SE Asia, China, Mongolia, Russia, Europe, back to SE Asia, Sri Lanka, and now India). It was fun to hear their stories about motorbiking around vietnam, driving jeeps across the Gobi desert in Mongolia, and watching the hustle and bustle of Olympic preparations in China. The Canadians had also been travelling in Ethiopia, Israel, Iran, and Pakistan, and it was interesting to hear their stories as well. It seems that there is a whole world out there! I know that as Americans we tend to value other things above travel more than other nations, but it is encouraging to see what people have been able to figure out and how valuable those experiences have been for them and will be for their whole lives. and I think these travels will not only benefit them, but all those around them. I know for me, it is one thing to read in the papers about world issues, but quite another to be in the middle of them.

Anyways, today or tomorrow I ship out further north up the coast. I'm not sure yet whether I'll try to go to Ammachi's ashram or not. I think I may skip it and head up instead to a wildlife preserve in the Ghats (literally "steps", mountains running north/south down the center of India) where you can see elephants, tigers (very rare), birds, etc. Mostly I think this because to experience it properly I'd want to stay longer. Perhaps this is not the trip for that. Anyways, soon it's back on the road.

Oh by the way I am enclosing another food picture. This one of the South Indian breakfast favorite, idly. Ymmm. Idly is fermented rice cakes that come up with a variety of dipping sauces, some spicy, some not. This particulr one came with two steamed bananas (makes the sugar really come out) and a grape/pineapple fruit juice.

John

ps love to all and keep the emails coming. It's good for me to remember that I'm not totally alone even though I'm on the other side of the world. I especially like this one from my friend Sunita in the Adirondacks (whom my mother loves by the way since our little meal this summer in Saranac Lake):

"John, Your latest post had the following effects on me: first, actual shivers of delight hearing about the tip of the continent, then my eyes tearing up when I read that you dipped your toes in the water, then strong desire to EAT your picture of the Thali plate. Man oh man I would like some of that right now!"